Ancestrale – amazing wine bar at Vesterbro

ancestrale

Vesterbro is certainly one of the most diverse areas in Copenhagen when it comes to restaurants. You’ll find anything from the finest kebabs to Michelin-starred food and everything in-between. Earlier this year, another little pearl was added to the pool. I’m referring to Ancestrale, a tiny wine bar located at Oehlenschlægersgade very close to Nimb.

ancestrale

Ancestrale has a very homely feel to it.

There are several reasons why I love this place. First of all, the three guys behind have had the wish to make the guests feel like if they were invited to a private get-together in their own living room. The result is a cosy room with wooden furniture and dimmed light giving a nice, calm atmosphere.

Then there’s the wine. The focus is on natural wines but not the most funky ones – there is something to satisfy every type of winelover. There is no winelist. Instead, you simply go to the wine “cellar” next door and point on the one you’d like. Obviously, if you have no clue, the guys are happy to help you find something you like.

Gut Oggau is one of the wineries represented at Ancestrale.

The third reason I like this place is the food. There are five dishes on the menu changing according to the season. They cost 95 kroner each, 375 for all of them. True to the wine bar spirit, the dishes are very simply yet incredibly tasty and satisfying. It could be the tender beetroots smothered in a heavily reduced beetroot juice accompanied by some goat fresh cheese and dill oil.

Beetroot and goat cheese.

I also loved the baked Jerusalem artichokes with pickled beech mushrooms and tarragon cream, which has the perfect balance between sweetness, acidity and richness – and lovely textures.

Jerusalem artichokes, pickled beech mushrooms and tarragon.

In other words: If you want to find a great wine bar that also serves amazing food, Ancestrale is where you should go. The staff is extremely friendly, service-minded at knowledgeable about their wines.

Ancestrale
Oehlenschlægersgade 12
1663 Copenhagen V
Website

 

Impressive performance by the new head chef at Studio

There a certainly job positions that are harder to succeed than others. I believe Damian Quintana will agree. A couple of months ago, he was announced as the new head chef at the one Michelin-starred restaurant Studio in Copenhagen. He was about to take over from Torsten Vildgaard, a living legend within the new Nordic cuisine. Torsten Vildgaard worked as the creative head chef at Noma for five years before he decided to go solo and open Studio in October 2013. Studio received a Michelin star already four months later and it has been maintained ever since.

Studio is located the The Standard along the waterside.

Therefore, it was quite a surprise when Vildgaard announced that he was leaving Studio to become a member of the Noma team once again. Who was about to take over as head chef at a restaurants that was even part-owned by Vildgaard himself?

Damian Quintana was the answer. The Chilean chef has worked for Torsten at Studio as well as other top establishments in Copenhagen but never as a head chef – could he handle the job? I needed to find out so I visited Studio in November.

Top service and comfort
The decor looks the same. The decor is still Nordic, yet warm, the tableware is still build around the beautiful plates and bowls made by K. H. Würtz ceramics and the service is still impeccable. It is run by Morten Magh, who to our joy has returned to Copenhagen after a couple of years in New York at Wine Director at the two Michelin-starred Atera. To my opinion, Morten Magh’s service is perfectly balanced between formal knowledge about the food and wine and a more informal, relaxed way of handling his guests. This combination makes you feel safe and relaxed from the very beginning.

Churros cooked in smoked bone marrow and filled with gruyere and topped with a mushroom puree and black truffle.

The menu (DKK 1,300) is consisting of a good handful of delicious, very precise appetizers and seven bigger courses and I’ll go straight to the conclusion: There was no low at any point of the meal – it just kept getting better and better, and I can easily say that the dinner at Studio went straight to my top five in 2017. I’ve eaten at one Michelin-starred restaurants that are not even close to the performance I experienced at Studio and if the inspectors have been doing their work properly, a second star should be within reach.

Damian Quintana has managed to create his own expression at Studio without loosing its original Nordic DNA. The flavors are still light, elegant and based on local produce but at the same time, Quintana is adding a bit of his South American heritage to the plate. The scallop dish was a perfect example. The large, hand-dived scallops from Norway were served raw with onion in a ceviche inspired version with a marinade of white currants, elderflowers, lemon grass and ginger giving the exotic twist; So fresh, sharp and elegant.

Scallop ceviche – devine!

Another one was the grilled duck heart served with a chumichurri of local herbs or the grilled Limfjord Oyster with potato and mussel sauce. Everything was thought through and made to perfection.

Grilled duck heart with chimichurri.

The very last dish, wasn’t very South American but indeed both challenging at utterly delicious. It consisted of porcini cream, porcini praline, porcini oil, spruce, roasted almond ice cream and 12 year old apple balsamico – wauw! The mushroom flavors certainly confused the brain at first but as we digged more into it, it just got better and better.

All in all, Studio is a very solid one-starred restaurant leaning very much towards two, and if you go to Copenhagen to do fine dining, do not miss this beautiful restaurant along the waterside of Copenhagen.

Studio
Havnegade 44
1058 København K

You should try the new menu at Gemyse!

I have the pleasure of eating at many great restaurants around the world and I know good food when I see it. Therefore, I am very happy to share with you the new menu by our new head chef af Gemyse, Mette Dahlgaard.

Mette has been with Bo Bech for ten consecutive years and to our luck, she has decided to begin her next chapter in Tivoli.

She will maintain – and develop – the DNA at Gemyse, meaning that she will continue to serve only the best local organic vegetables in order for you to experience how much flavour you can put into a fully vegetarian menu. As always, you can add fish or meat to the menu if you like.

Here are some pictures from the menu with I am very enthusiastic about.

The most beautiful beetroot tartar. You mix all the ingredients together yourself.

Baked Jerusalem artichokes with a divine sauce of brown butter and toasted oat.

Celeriac in three ways.

Small potatoes with confit egg yolk.

Duck breast with rehydrated carrots and a sauce of brown butter, mustard and brown sugar.

Glazed beef tenderloin with caramelized onions – look at that crust!

Cabbage and blue cheese. 

Book your table right here.

New Year’s Eve at Gemyse

gemyse

gemyse

Not the worst place to celebrate New Year’s Eve, right?!

The last day of the year should be spent well and if I were you, I would consider to book a table at Gemyse, our restaurant in the middle of Tivoli.

What I love about this green oasis is that you can enjoy great food with intense, delicious flavours without having any meat. I simple don’t miss it when I eat there. I leave satisfied and full without feeling overloaded with food – not a bad thing if you are going to party all night long to celebrate the New Year.

You’ll have to wait until New Year’s Eve to see the menu but we can reveal that delicious winter cabbage will be a part of the menu.

Glazed beef tenderloin – look at that crust! (from the current menu at Gemyse)

The menu won’t be entirely vegetarian – you will get a lot of luxurious products during the dinner. See the program below and book right here:

Programme

On New Year’s Eve, Gemyse welcomes you to a delicious dinner with carefully paired wines.

Once you enter the beautiful restaurant, and get comfortable at the refectory table, you can look forward to the Head Chef’s delicious interpretation of a classic New Year’s menu paired with our sommelier’s best wine suggestions before the amazing fireworks in Tivoli Gardens.

17.30
The evening commences with bubbles and snacks with an opportunity to watch the Queen’s New Year speech.

 
18.30
The dinner starts
 
23.00

New Year’s Eve dinner ends at 23.00, but Nimb Bar will be open afterwards serving tempting cocktails.

Menu

Salt-baked celeriac with Danish lobster and fermented herbs from Gemyse’s garden
2014, Laforet Blanc, Joseph Drouhin

Variation of kale with salt-cured cod and preserved lemons
2014, Seresin, Sauvignon Blanc, Seresin Estate

Grilled beef tenderloin with pickled berries and glazed beetroot
2014, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Blason des Papes

Panna cotta with Jerusalem artichokes and crisp coconut
2016, Muscat de Rivesaltes, Gerard Bertrand

Marzipan ring cake
Nv, Moët & Chandon, Imperial, Brut

DKK 1.695 including wine pairing

As the restaurant is situated inside beautiful Tivoli Gardens, admission is required when celebrating New Year’s Eve at Gemyse.

Gemyse is looking forward to celebrate New Year’s Eve with you!